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Skin
Decoding The Mystery Of Retinol
The potent skincare ingredient that solves issues for many might be the most confusing one. We’re here to simplify retinol for you.
Text Başak Ulubilgen
I know that retinol is one of the most effective skincare ingredients. But each time I’m tempted to use a product with the popular vitamin A derivative, I take a step back. There is a specific way to use retinol, and I was scared of not doing it right. Yet, the before and afters of this potent ingredient is always on my mind, and it is about time to find some space for it in my meticulously crafted routine. You’ll find that once you get the essence of it, integrating retinol into your skincare is quite simple and not as confusing as it seems. If I decode this mystery, everyone can. Let’s start with the most important question…
What Is Retinol?
Retinoids are a derivative of Vitamin A that stimulates collagen production to help reverse the signs of photo-aging. Retinol, with tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene, alitretinoin, and bexarotene, is a common retinoid that comes in cream, gel, and liquid forms. Nowadays, many over-the-counter skin products usually contain retinol. Tretinoin is also up there with retinol but it’s usually present in formulas prescribed by dermatologists. This is why you see the words “retinol” and “anti-aging” (although we’re not fans of that antiquated term) together on skincare products. Because of its skin-smoothing, inflammation-reducing, tone-brightening, and pore-clearing properties, retinol can also be used for treating breakouts. For example, one of the strongest acne medications, Roaccutane, is the name for isotretinoin capsules. It is safe to say that retinol is the holy grail of skincare ingredients.
Slow Your Roll
Products containing retinol or other retinoids should be used only in nighttime routines, and in recommended amounts. Retinol can be irritating to the skin if used too frequently, especially if you’re just a beginner. Start by incorporating retinol into your routine every other day or even less, and then if your skin approves, carry on. It’s also wise to begin with a simple patch test. You might experience some changes to your skin around the first few times you put on a retinol-based product (dryness, for example). This is just your skin adapting to the ingredient. This brings us to a very crucial step.
The Importance Of Sunscreen
It’s a must to use sun protection every day while using a retinol-based product, as this ingredient makes most complexions more vulnerable and/or sensitive to sun exposure. Apply the SPF not only on your face, but also on any areas of your skin that are out in the open.
How To Pick The Right Retinol For You?
We should all be mindful of our skin types when starting our respective retinol journeys. And yes, it is a journey that has the potential to be a great one. You might have heard about the many percentages of retinol in products, and that’s one of the first things you should check when you’re browsing for one. If you’re a newbie or have sensitive skin, it would be best to use a product that has the lowest percentage of retinol, like 0,01%. From there you can build up to 1% if needed. If you don’t see how much retinol a product has, just look at the ingredients list. There are many retinol-based products on the market these days. The wrong one can cause more harm than good to your skin, and it is worth spending time researching retinol products. Here are a couple of suggestions from us.
Never Used It Before
Paula’s Choice Resist Anti-Aging Barrier Repair Moisturiser, $29,60
This has the potential to be a great nighttime moisturizer for beginners, because it has only 0.01% retinol. While helping to improve the appearance of wrinkles with its potent antioxidant blend, it also protects the skin from environmental damage.
CeraVe Skin Renewing Retinol Serum, $22,99
A gentle serum that can be a safe choice for beginners. The encapsulated retinol in this formula is supported by hyaluronic acid for extra hydration, niacinamide for soothing, and ceramides to lock in moisture.
By Wishtrend Vitamin A-mazing Bakuchiol Night Cream, $28.05
This cream contains 0.03% Retinal, a faster working relative of retinol; bakuchiol, and niacinamide. It has a hypoallergenic formula and comes in a colorful, opaque pump that keeps the Vitamin A stable.
Previous
I’m New But Cautious
Kiehl’s Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro Dose Serum, $46,50
The simple but effective formula has pure retinol, along with ceramides and peptides. It has a fast-absorbing lightweight texture, is paraben-free, fragrance-free, mineral oil-free, and phthalate-free. A gateway serum into aging care.
Youth To The People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum, $68 at Sephora
This night serum has a unique compilation made up of 0.15% stabilized retinaldehyde —the most potent retinoid next to a prescription retinoid, niacinamide for evening out skin tones and a special, adaptogen mix to soothe the skin. It’s vegan and cruelty-free.
MELE Even Dark Spot Serum, $23.99
Co-created with dermatologists of color, MELE’s formulations are suited to work better for melanin-rich skin tones. This dark spot serum has niacinamide to even out the skin tone, Vitamin E for moisturization and antioxidant properties, and 0.3% pro-retinol which will help with reducing the appearance of dark spots and fine lines. Shake well before each use.
La Roche-Posay Redermic R Retinol Cream, $50.99
The award-winning formula contains pure retinol, a derivative of salicylic acid called Lipo-Hydroxy Acid (LHA), making it a smart choice for acne prone skin, and La Roche-Posay’s famous thermal water. Since it has a little fragrance, it’s more suitable for normal skin types.
Intermediate Level
Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream, $74 at Sephora
Contains 1% pure vegan retinol, Vitamin F, and a blend of hydrating oils which help defend against environmental stressors and keep the skin bouncy in cold days. Vegan and cruelty-free.
The Inkey List Retinol Serum, $10,99
The improved formula has 1% retinol acetate (the brand says it’s more sustainable than common retinol), 0.5% granactive retinoid, and squalene for hydration. It is vegan and cruelty-free.
The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane, $8
Attention The Ordinary fans: Yes, another straightforward product with a clean, effective formulation. This serum contains 1% retinol, along with squalene. They also have options for lower and higher levels. It is vegan and cruelty-free
I’m The Boss Of Retinol
MZ Skin Retinol Skin Booster, £110
MZ Skin is not playing any games. This treatment is for people whose skin is used to retinol: The formula has a whopping 2% encapsulated retinol. Even if you’re a retinol pro, start by using it about 2 times a week first. Paraben-free, phthalate-free, sulfate-free, and GMO-free.
iS Clinical Pro-Heal Serum Advance+, $158
This smart face care has been formulated to bring inflammated, breakout prone, and exhausted complexions back to life. The ingredients Vitamin C, E, and A play a major role in restoring and repairing the skin.This trio is accompanied by superfood extracts that act as antioxidants. It is fragrance-free, essential oil-free, and cruelty-free.
Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Texture Renewal Peel, $78
This very strong overnight peel has trans-retinol and encapsulated retinol, as well as Bakuchiol –which provides retinol-like effects without irritating the skin. The popular antioxidant ferulic acid helps protect against sun damage. It is recommended using overnight, 2-3 times a week. The formula is cruelty-free.
Bonus
When using retinol, it’s best to take a break from other potent ingredients like AHAs, BHAs, and benzoyl peroxide.#WonderReminder
— Wonderflaw (@itswonderflaw) December 18, 2022
