Text Valerie Dayan
Although we never had that obvious finale to the pandemic, 2022 was the closest to that relieving ending. We took those masks off and, with a new sense of isolation-induced joie de vivre, went back to traveling for pleasure and going out with no intention of guilt - the restaurants and bars seemed to be more packed than ever. 2022 felt like our very own Roaring 20s, and the beauty looks mirrored this exhilarating feeling. Glossy, sparkly, iridescent, and chromatic textures reigned throughout the year. If I had to pick a single color to represent the year (sorry, Pantone), it is, without a doubt, silver. Although the exact source of this trend is vague, Queen B’s Renaissance is single-handedly responsible for making the disco ball hue desired. Calm, cool, and collected, silver made it to eye makeup looks in the form of chromatic eyeliners, monolid eyeshadows, glitters, and gems. Nails were also clad in silver, minimal french, or bold mirror manicures. Meta influencer Hailey Bieber’s glazed donut nails were also wildly popular, and nail art studios all over the globe created the opalescent style in different colors every day. Rhinestones and other face accessories kept ruling the makeup scene, and brands like Half Magic Beauty and Simihaze Beauty, along with runways (Simone Rocha, Burberry, Fendi, and Vivetta, to name a few), gave us creative inspirations we seek.
Image courtesy of @simihazebeauty
In the past, the beauty industry has been notoriously and exclusively kind to youth and rather apathetic and cruel to older women. The most common example is the term anti-aging which has become so dangerously mainstream it’s hard to find a replacement when writing or talking about beauty. However, the inclusive approach shaking up the industry found its way to a graceful acceptance of hormonal changes for women. Peri, post, and menopausal skin types exist for women who menstruate, and it is crucial to talk about and cater to something necessary and genuine, not niche at all. Skincare and wellbeing brands such as Stripes (founded by Naomi Watts), Veracity, Miyé, Pause, State of, See Me Beauty, Thermaband, Attn: Grace, and Meno specifically cater to issues like hot flashes, exhaustion, loss of collagen, dryness, and bladder weakness. ¡Viva la hormonal revolución!
Image courtesy of @veracityselfcare
In a recent industry plot twist, Estée Lauder Companies acquired Tom Ford for $2.8 billion, making it the first-ever fashion brand under the American beauty giant’s umbrella of brands. Estée Lauder already owned Tom Ford Beauty, and we will have to wait and see what it means for the conglomerate to own the namesake fashion house. This can translate into more control over marketing strategies (Mr. Ford had his specific ways of advertising, such as not using celebrity endorsements) and the rise of a new era where fashion and beauty brands collaborate in more profound, meaningful manners. In other news, Belgian fashion house Dries Van Noten launched a line of lipsticks and fragrances, Stella McCartney returned to the business with an eco-friendly skincare line with all naturally sourced ingredients, and Off-White launched its beauty collection, Paperwork. New Yorker streetwear brand Kith collaborated with Malin + Goetz, and Vintner’s Daughter worked on a limited edition Active Botanical Serum with jewelry designer Kim Dunham.
Image courtesy of @stellamccartneybeauty
One of the most striking and meaningful things to happen in beauty this year was on an ideological level. The understanding of luxury started transforming into a notion that promotes a healthy body and eco-friendly choices. Launched in early 2022, Chanel’s new skincare and makeup line N°1 de Chanel, was a pioneering example of what the future holds for the world of luxury. Created with the industry’s environmental impact and the health-conscious consumer in mind, the products in the collection have up to %97 naturally derived ingredients and sustainable packaging to help reduce carbon footprint. The Revitalizing Cream has a refill option for $95. Hèrmes, Lancome, Augustinus Bader, Tata Harper, Frédéric Malle, Prada, Dior Beauty, Valentino Beauty, Costa Brazil, Humanrace, Victoria Beckham, La Mer, Hourglass, and La Bouche Rouge are among the brands that currently offer refills to help minimize beauty waste. These efforts deserve recognition because it can be tricky to maintain the integrity of skincare formulas with refillable packaging (this is less of an issue with fragrances and shampoos) and because these efforts influence purchase decisions and consumer behavior in a sustainably driven fashion. For a brand like Hèrmes, which is based on exquisite attention to detail, usage of the highest quality materials, and an unmatchable level of exclusivity, selling chic beauty products with refills is a bold and forward-thinking move.
Image courtesy of Chanel Beauty
Things get redundant and even slightly absurd sometimes, but at this point, we need to accept celebrities as a permanent part of the beauty industry. Although it’s unclear why stars are endlessly obsessed with creating their own brands in an overcrowded market, they still, somehow, do. And to be fair, 2022 ventures are quite refreshing in their own ways. Pleasing by Harry Styles connects a novel sense of fun and triviality with genderfluid products (Pleasing’s second drop, Shroom Bloom, is inspired by the psychedelic world of mushrooms - a sneak peek to the final paragraph). Cosmoss, created by Kate Moss, combines spiritual rituals and cosmetics in its own way. Serena Williams’ Will Perform has tapped into an area that needed improvement: Post-exercise muscle relief. Hailey Bieber’s rhode skin ticks all the new age skincare boxes with clean ingredients, recycled, sustainable, and minimal packaging design, possibly making it the future Fenty Beauty of Gen Z’s skincare lovers. The celebrity brand that surprised everyone the most was Travis Barker’s Barker Wellness. The Blink-182 drummer gifted the industry five CBD-infused, vegan, and organic wellness products. Right around when his line dropped, Brad Pitt announced Le Domaine, a luxury skincare brand with patented ingredients, chic packaging, and prices ranging from 70 to 350 euros. Although I sometimes feel celebrity beauty fatigue, I sincerely hope that 2023 is the year Jennifer Coolidge blesses us with an inclusive, honest, and humorous skincare and makeup brand.
Image courtesy of @cosmoss
Although the relationship between psychedelics and mental health is not a new conversation, it is becoming more visible and relevant daily. In fact, the term microdosing reached a global all-time Google search peak in August 2022. A whole new world opened its doors to me when I, along with the world, read Michael Pollan’s How to Change Your Mind: The New Science of Psychedelics in 2019, a pioneering book that lifted the age-old stigma around psychedelics treatments. Since then, the studies and trials regarding the beneficial effects of psilocybin, aka magic mushrooms, LSD, MDMA, ketamine, and mescaline, have started getting more funding and interest than ever. And more and more neurologists and neuroscientists work on unraveling the effects of psychedelics on mental health problems such as anxiety, depression, OCD, alcoholism, and PTSD, how to pair psychedelics with psychotherapy, and how these treatments can help rewire the brain for the better. In fact, Pollan himself co-founded the UC Berkeley Center for the Science of Psychedelics in 2020. These academic studies are paving the way to changing how psychedelics are perceived in everyday life, and this year the conversation became even louder. In July 2022, two years after the popular documentary Have a Good Trip, Netflix released Pollan’s four-part docuseries, How To Change Your Mind, opening up new horizons and possibilities for millions worldwide. Last week, psychedelic health insurance administrator Enthea raised $2 million and was expected to grow to $600 million by 2026, which shows that the usage of psychedelic therapy in everyday life is increasingly accepted. Currently, the mainstream focus is on psilocybin and ketamine treatment, and healthcare start-up companies, healing centers, and clinics from all over the globe are looking for new ways to offer mental wellness. Some trailblazers are Field Trip, Synthesis, Mindbloom, Wholeness Center, Compass Pathways, Nue Life, MycoMeditations, and Silo Wellness. On the non-psychoactive side, mushrooms have found their way into effective skincare formulas. The daily intake of functional mushrooms (meaning ones that won’t make you trip and are totally legal) like reishi, cordyceps, chaga, and lion’s mane has already become widely accepted thanks to brands like Rainbo, FreshCap, Om, Real Mushrooms, Hokkaido Reishi, Four Sigmatic, Earth & Star, Rasa, and Rritual. These supplements come in various forms, such as tinctures, powders, gummies, etc. They aim to promote stress management, mood regulation, focus, and relaxation, as well as anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.
Image courtesy of Netlix